Five Small Towns from Adair to Dexter, Part 3

Five small towns along a 26-mile section of an old highway west of Des Moines have come together to bring travelers back into their towns.
Adair, the largest of the 5 towns, population of 7,000, is recognizable from Interstate 80 by its yellow smiley face water tower. Downtown Adair is lined with flags, dedicated to the heroes and victims of 9/11.

Founded in 1872 it was named for General John Adair, the War of 1812. The city sits on the highest point on the rail line and the summit is part of the East Nishnabotna watershed for water to flow into either the Mississippi or Missouri Rivers.
Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Adair Viaduct is an arched concrete bridge over the rail line on 5th street. Built in 1924, the three-span open-spandrel arch bridge is 205.1 ft long, the largest span is 80.1 ft. The bridge is 24 ft wide.


Trying to find a location to get a picture of the viaduct, I finally pulled into the bank parking lot hoping it would be my best view. I’m sure the folks in the bank at Adair are still talking about that crazy lady with the dually from Texas that drove thu their drive-up the wrong way! I just waved and smiled! I tried several times to get a decent picture of the water tower and then a friendly soul told me where to drive to get in behind the water tower.
Then on down the road to Casey.

Casey, population less than 400, founded in 1868, was named for the Irish foreman Patrick Casey who made camp in the area and was in charge of the railroad construction work for the new Chicago, Rock Island and Pacific Railroad.
The brick Main Street is lined with antique stores. Today’s Community Center was the Hardware Store where Jesse James and his gang stopped to buy their rope they used in their Adair train robbery.

Just north of town you can still see the wagon trail long abandoned that runs along the fence line north towards the county seat town of Guthrie Center. A portion of the Mormon Trail of 1846 passed though this area. Unable to get a good picture of the ruts, I could see them, but they are grown over with grass and prairie right now. Looks like they need some 'tending to."

I really need to go back to Casey. I was not able to find Veteran’s Memorial Park built by a Casey youth group that features patriotic murals by Ray “Bubba” Sorensen. How can you not find a park in a town of less than 400 folks. There was no one to ask. Nothing moving in town, nothing on the streets, no businesses open, no one in front of homes. I thought I had entered the Twilight Zone. I think I was the only person and vehicle moving in town at the time! Besides, I understand there is some great pie in the diner in town – but it’s only open on Saturday!

Slayton Rock, one of Iowa's largest fully exposed glacial deposits, weighs over 500,000 pounds, is southwest of Casey. It is 16’ high, 14’ wide, 58’ round. Don and Betty Slayton moved it from a nearby farm field. (Bet they needed lots of help!) After starting down the narrow gravel lane, I decided not to wander any further, kinda rutty and narrow for my dually.

Founded in 1869 by Iowa’s first millionaire, Benjamin Franklin Allen, Menlo has a population of 375. During the same year Allen completed his family home Terrace Hill in Des Moines, which is now the Iowa Governor’s Mansion.

Over the years, Menlo has had several names. Bought for $15 an acre in 1868 by B.F. Allen, the town was laid out on July 8, 1869. Initially, the town was called "The Switch," referring to the railroad. Later it was then called "Guthrie Switch” since it was located in Guthrie county. In 1876, the town dropped "Switch" and was then known as Guthrie. However, when the road to Guthrie Center was built, the name of Menlo was substituted fearing confusion with the similar names. No one seems to know what or who is Menlo!

Welcoming you to Menlo is the Friendly Gas Station Man. In 1934, the Nebraska Neon Sign Company manufactured the image of a service station attendant in a blue uniform outlined in neon lights for the Kalbach Oil Company. The sign was to welcome motorists. He is still on duty in his blue uniformed outlined in red neon waving at the passers-by. He will make you smile, and you just might wave back! I did!

Stuart “Over 1700 Good Eggs and a Few Stinkers” according to their city welcome sign.

Originally called Summit Grove, in 1850 a small group of Quakers from Indiana and Ohio settled in the area. In 1870, Civil War veteran, Capt Charles A. Stuart purchased land in the area. At the same time, the Rock Island Railroad was completed. Captain Stuart and the railroad officials determined that Stuart would be the site of the division station and machine shops. Later the Rock Island Railroad would establish division headquarters in Stuart. The railroad wrote a contract that Stuart would be the division headquarters forever. (Some contracts are made to be broken!)

Through the years he engine house was increased to accommodate 38 engines. There was a large machine, blacksmith and boiler shops. By 1875, a workforce of 94 machinist and shop helpers, 45 engineers and 45 firemen were working in the shops. This was the only shop on the Rock Island Line between Silvis, Illinois and Omaha, Nebraska.

Stuart was a hub of commercial activity… banks, hotels, boarding houses, coal dealers, jewelers, surrey factory, cigar factory, saloons, a brewery, feed, dry goods, drug grocery, shoes, clothing and hardware stores, elevators, flouring mill, livery stables, churches, 2 telegraph offices, attorneys, an opera house, and restaurants. Folks in the area no longer needed to go to Des Moines for supplies.

By 1893, the population reached 2,500. This prosperity would not continue. The Rock Island had built a north-south line from Kansas City to Minneapolis which passed through Des Moines. In 1896, a decision had been made to move the division station to Valley Junction. On September 24, 1897, the Rock Island declared that the “railroad shops at Stuart will be cleaned out by Saturday night.” A total of 400 people left Stuart during the next week. Removal of all of the machinery and buildings followed.

Former Rock Island Railroad Depot is now the town’s last link to its railroad past and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Also on the National Register of Historic Places, All Saints Building, built in 1908 it was partially destroyed by an arsonist in 1995. The former Catholic Church is a rare example of Byzantine and Romanesque architecture in the Midwest. The building has recently been restored as the Saints Center for Culture and the Arts and houses the Learning Museum of Religious Tolerance. (I had to swipe a picture from their Facebook page since mine didn’t come out.)

Stuart is also the location of the last bank robbery staged by the notorious Barrow gang. About a year after their Dexfield Park shootout (more about this in another blog entry) and about a month before they died, Bonnie and Clyde robbed the First National Bank of approximately $2,000 on April 16, 1934. The bank closed in 1944, was converted into the Police Station and now houses offices and shops.

And it wouldn’t be Friday or Saturday nite in Iowa without a quarter-mile stock car track, the Stuart Speedway.

Dexter, population just under 900, founded in 1868, was named for the famous New York racehorse popular at the time. The New York Times referred to Dexter as the “Original One Horse Town”.

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Roundhouse was built in the 1916. It currently serves as a community center for a variety of community and social functions such as dances, talent and variety shows, theatrical productions, recitals, plays, wedding and anniversary receptions, reunions, church services, club meetings, dinners, flea markets, fitness and sports activities, and basketball games. With a bleacher seating capacity of 1,000, it was used for sectional tournaments. Because of the excellent acoustics and seating capacity, the building was used for activities including school plays, musical presentations and graduation ceremonies. It continues to be the site for annual events including Cruise Nite in June, community potluck at Fall Festival in August, a Halloween party for kids, a Holiday Bazaar in November, an Old fashioned Christmas in December and monthly bingo.
Plans were drawn for a public building of such uniqueness and size that it was the first of its kind in the US. The architect was Major Matthew Leander King, grandfather of actor Nick Nolte. Constructed of hollow blacks, the 100' x 68' building appears to be round at ground level but, in fact, it is elliptical. The roof is domed without support except at the walls. To alleviate fears that the roof would collapse, during construction cars were driven up board ramps onto the roof.

I had hoped to make a stop at Drew’s Chocolates. In 1927, Helen Drew started a candy-making business from the recipes of relatives in New Hampshire. Today, Drew’s still uses the original recipes and equipment in the same house. It is one of the few, if not the only, candy shop in the country that daily fork dips each delicious piece of chocolate by hand. They were closed! Saved a bunch of calories there!

That ends the White Pole Road. Heading back west thru Dexter, I pick up the Dexfield Road and head north to Redfield. But not without a picture of a good ol' fashioned storm cellar!